Monday, March 26, 2018

A Tour Through Civil Rights History - Day 3

Thanks to driving to Selma the previous night, we were able to rearrange our hotels for today and go a bit further up the road, accomplishing more in the day than we originally planned.

Our first stop was at Jackson Lake Island. When Matt mentioned the letterbox on the island (just minutes from our hotel), he said that the box was hidden on a movie set for the movie "Big Fish".  Kaitee immediately perked up and said that they had read the book and watched the movie earlier this year!  While she was SUPER excited to see all of the island, the rest of us weren't as thrilled.  It ended up being a neat stop - the kids practiced their shoe throwing skills (thanks to a pair being left on the ground), we found a letterbox, Will & Alex fell in love with the "wild" goats and we got to see a very cool movie set (made even more cool when we watched the movie as a family a few weeks after the trip).

This is a sign we don't see in Illinois - kind of unnerving as a parent.
Can you tell that Kaitee is a bit excited...the others, not so much!
We left the Montgomery area and headed north to Birmingham.  We knew that this would be the hardest stop of the trip and we weren't really looking forward to it.  Here is what Matt wrote regarding this day:

 "Just the thought of Birmingham gives me an ominous feeling. The evil that took place here...I can't even put to words. Every picture in my mind that are synonymous with the Civil Rights Movement, include German Shepherds and fire hoses. The Birmingham Police and Fire Departments, under the direction of Bull Connor...all took place in this town.

One bright spot was Martin Luther King, Jr.'s 'Letter From the Birmingham Jail.' Sad how one of the few bright spots for Birmingham, in my mind, comes from a man who was unjustly jailed."
From the Birmingham Jail, we drove downtown to the 16th Street Baptist Church. On September 15, 1963, a bomb went off during the Sunday School hour killing 4 young girls -  Addie Mae Collins (age 14), Carol Denise McNair (age 11), Carole Robertson (age 14), and Cynthia Wesley (age 14)


Just across the street from 16th Baptist Church is Kelly Ingram park -- the site of the infamous scenes of german shepherds and fire hoses.

Today, there are statues throughout the park that invoke emotion. The first statue you encounter as you walk from the 16th Baptist Church is one dedicated to the 4 girls who were killed.

This statue provoked an emotional reaction within us. I still can't get over the inhumane way in which people were treated. It represents the fire hoses blasting people against a wall.

You can see 16th Street Baptist Church through the trees in the background to the right.

Whereas the fire hose statue invoked emotion...this one puts you in the middle of it all. Absolutely Terrifying.
This statue commemorates the Children's Crusade -- which Matt didn't know anything about (even with doing research for this trip), however, the kids learned about the Children's Crusade at school and were familiar with it.
MLK Statue in the middle of the park.
The kids were a bit bored after walking around and reading lot of information boards...
Matt was thrilled to find a Whataburger on the drive north!  One of his favorites from his Houston days.
When we had crossed the border into Alabama, we stopped at the Welcome Center. Matt went through the brochures on display and pulled all the ones about the Civil Rights Movement. He saw one with a picture of Jesse Owens on it and grabbed that one, too.

 We didn't know that Jesse Owens was from Alabama and this was not on the agenda for our trip. We tucked it away as a "possibility" if time permitted...we were going to be stopping to see Helen Keller's home and Jesse Owens wasn't that far off.


The Jesse Owens Museum is so well done. Lots of information, memorabilia, pictures. I'm so glad that we stopped.
Outside of the Museum is a long jump pit, where you can test your skills against Owens. Only Will and Maddie gave it a go.
A little perspective...in the foreground you can see the launching plate with the kids standing at where he landed -- in ONE JUMP!!

The raked line in the sand is where Maddie and Will landed their jumps.

Our last stop of the day was Ivy Green, the birth home of Helen Keller.
One of the plaques in front of the home said that it was the second home built in Tuscumbia, Alabama. They've done a great job of keeping up with it. The small cottage to the right (below) is where Anne Sullivan took Helen to teach her, away from the influence of Helen's parents.
This Bronze statue of young Helen is a replica of the original - located in the Capitol Visitor Center in Washington DC.
This cement bust of older Helen is a replica of the original that is located inside the National Cathedral in Washington, DC.  Helen and her teacher, Anne Sullivan are buried together at the Cathedral. 
The actual water pump that Helen learned her first word "W-A-T-E-R"
A new fountain/statue recreating the moment Helen learned the word "Water"...the water wasn't flowing when we were there.
We watched the movie about Helen Keller and Anne Sullivan, "The Miracle Worker" the week before our trip.  We asked if the movie held true to real life events and the tour guide said that it did.  While the house was different in the movie, it was neat to walk through the house and think through the events of the movie - bringing Helen's story to life.

We ended our day and headed to the hotel - first stopping at The Pie Factory for a pizza dinner.  Neat atmosphere and yummy pizza.

Sunday, March 25, 2018

A Tour Through Civil Rights History - Day 2

We woke up to rain on Sunday morning.  Not a good sign as most of our plans are outside.  We packed up the room, ate breakfast and made a quick stop on our way out of Atlanta - Chick-fil-A Headquarters.  As I mentioned, it was Sunday and raining...so we opted for a quick picture by the sign (from the van). 

As we were heading southwest, into Alabama...we were met with a warm front.  The van windows instantly steamed up on the outside and the rain pretty much stopped.  We watched the outside temp go up 15° in a few miles!  It was one of the craziest things we've ever driven through!

As we came closer to the Alabama border, Matt told the kids to get ready for a picture.  I soon heard "Sweet Home Alabama" coming from one of the kids.  I found the song on my phone and we sang along as we passed from Georgia into Alabama.
First stop for the day - Tuskegee Airmen National Historic Site.  We assumed that this Site would be open all weekend, but we were wrong!  It was closed for the day!  Luckily, the grounds were open so we enjoyed walking around and seeing the outbuildings and reading the boards.  We were bummed to miss out on seeing the planes inside the hanger though.
Back in the van, we headed to Tuskegee University - founded by Booker T Washington in 1881.  Both Booker T. Washington and George Washington Carver are buried in a small cemetery located on the school grounds.
We left Tuskegee and traveled to Montgomery for a few hours of pure history.

We knew that Montgomery would be relatively quiet since it was a Sunday and we would be downtown, in the heart of the governmental district.  We were right!  It was nice to pull up to a stop and do things at our own pace (and not have to feed the parking meters).  We visited the Rosa Parks Museum and found that they were closed for the day.  We made the most of our time though and enjoyed the day while reading and remembering.

The spot where Rosa Parks was arrested for not giving up her seat...
Found this little guy - out for a Sunday stroll ON the building.
Frank M. Johnson, Federal Judge served at the building below. He was a great example of a white judge doing what was right in the south during some tumultuous years. Anyone, no matter the color of their skin, who stood before Judge Frank M Johnson would get a fair trial.

From Wikipedia; "Frank Minis Johnson Jr. (October 30, 1918 – July 23, 1999) was a United States Federal judge, serving 1955 to 1999 at the District and Appeals Court levels. He made landmark civil rights rulings that helped end segregation and disenfranchisement of African Americans in the South. In the words of journalist and historian Bill Moyers, Judge Johnson 'altered forever the face of the South.'"

Right behind the courthouse is the Greyhound Bus Station that was segregated, as well as a stop for the Freedom Riders that were met with violent resistance to their efforts. Of all the stops on this trip, this was the most moving for me. The time line and stories displayed on the building were very well put together and made you feel like you were there - the quotes, the stories, the pictures - documented well.  I still shake my head at the ugliness of society and people. 

In the picture below, you can see the boarded up door - "Colored Entrance". The sign states that there were separate entrances, restrooms, waiting areas, lunch & ticket counters.  If a "colored" person entered a "white" person area, they would be arrested.  Ugly, Ugly, Ugly...This stop was sobering to say the least.
We found a spot to park a bit closer to the Capitol Building.  Dexter Ave Baptist Church was our next stop (according to our handy dandy GPS!).  We had no clue that this church was one block from the Capital Bldg.  Dexter Avenue Baptist Church -- where Martin Luther King, Jr was a pastor of the church from 1954 to 1960, and organized the Montgomery Bus Boycott from his basement office.
By mere coincidence, we happened to visit Montgomery the 53rd anniversary, to the day, of the marchers arrival from Selma.

This is a cross walk that honors the marchers before the capitol building.

Here are a few pictures from the actual march to Montgomery (from Selma).
 
"At the end of the third march from Selma to Montgomery, 25,000 people gathered on the steps of the Capitol to hear Dr. King deliver his famous speech, 'How Long, Not Long.' The building, which housed Gov. George Wallace’s office, has been rehabilitated and restored to its original appearance." -- Civil Rights Trail Web Site
 “'… until justice rolls down like waters and righteousness like a mighty stream.”'Dr. King’s famous paraphrase of Amos 5:24 is chiseled into the black granite of the Civil Rights Memorial, a moving tribute to those who died in the civil rights struggle between 1954 and 1968. Created by Vietnam Memorial architect Maya Lin in 1989" -- Civil Rights Trail Web Site
It was so nice to see green and flowers!  The weather was beautiful - a bit hot even!  We were all ready to sit in the van and cool down for a bit after being out in the sun (84°), walking in the heat.  Yet back home, we were getting hit by another snow storm!!
First White House of the Confederacy, where President Jefferson Davis and his family lived.
Holt Street Baptist Church -

"On the evening of Dec. 5, 1955, in the aftermath of Rosa Parks’ arrest, 5,000 people gathered at Holt Street Baptist Church. They filled the sanctuary, the basement auditorium and even spilled outside to hear the newly elected president of the Montgomery Improvement Association, Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. His stirring speech advocating action without violence gave rise to the Montgomery Bus Boycott. Holt Street Baptist Church is still active today within the Montgomery community." --The Civil Right Trail Web Site

Rosa Parks wrote:

"By the time I arrived at the meeting, the church was so filled up that a crowd of hundreds spilled out into the street, and speakers had to be set up outside to accommodate everyone. The excitement around the church was electrifying, and I remember having a sense that something powerful was being born. I squeezed my way through the crowd to my seat on the platform, where a lively discussion about the boycott strategy was underway."
We left Montgomery with plans to head to our hotel for the night.  As we sat in the van finding our hotel on the GPS, we discussed the possibility of heading to Selma then to the hotel.  Selma Highway and Selma weren't on our agenda until the next morning but thanks to a lot (all!) of the museums being closed on Sunday, we had a lot of time to spare.  Because we had plenty of daylight left and the weather was nice so we decided to head there. 

Driving the Selma/Jefferson Davis Highway, we came across the camp sites where the marchers spent the night as they made their way to Montgomery.  From Selma to Montgomery is 54 miles - the marchers did this march in 4 days. They walked approx. 10 miles each day - camping along the way.
We stopped at the Lowndes Interpretive Center - a wonderful center (closed for the day!) that had many informative plaques and a beautiful setting to walk around.
This is a unique gate.

The gate itself, the giant arch, represents the Edmund Pettus Bridge in Selma- the starting point for the Marches for voting rights. In the middle of the gate is a tent city, that leads to the capitol building. This one gate symbolizes the Selma to Montgomery Marches -- beginning, middle, and end.


We arrived in Selma, snapped this picture, then drove across the bridge.  We found a place to park then snapped more pictures by the bridge...then walked across it.
Matt was curious about who Edmund Pettus was. As per Wikipedia;

"Edmund Winston Pettus (July 6, 1821 – July 27, 1907) was an American lawyer, soldier, and legislator. He served as a Confederate general during the American Civil War, during which he was captured three times. After the war he was a Grand Dragon of the Alabama Ku Klux Klan and a Democratic U.S. Senator.

The Edmund Pettus Bridge across the Alabama River in Selma, Alabama, was named in his honor, ironically later becoming a landmark of the Civil Rights Movement."
 We ended our time in Selma by driving by the Brown Chapel.  "Brown Chapel African Methodist Episcopal (AME) Church, the first AME church in Alabama, was the site of preparations for the march to Montgomery on March 7, 1965, a day that became known as Bloody Sunday. The church also served as a refuge for injured marchers. Declared a National Historic Landmark in 1997, the church is still in use today." -- Civil Rights Trail Web Site
We arrived at our hotel, picked up dinner and enjoyed a quiet evening watching TV and getting caught up on emails and looking through our pictures.  We were so glad that we decided to travel to Selma - that helped reduce our Monday travel by 3 hours!